Camellias flower in extravagant style when almost nothing else dares — late winter into spring — against deep evergreen gloss that earns its place the rest of the year. They have three genuine requirements: acid soil, steady moisture in late summer, and the right aspect. Get those right and they're remarkably little work.
Position
Light or dappled shade, sheltered from cold winds. The one aspect to avoid is east-facing: early morning sun hitting frozen buds and flowers thaws them too fast and browns them. A west- or north-facing wall is the classic camellia home, and they flower generously in shade that would defeat most flowering shrubs.
Soil
Camellias are ericaceous — they need acid conditions and will yellow in chalky or limy soil. In the ground, work in ericaceous compost and mulch with it annually. In pots, use a dedicated ericaceous mix, and prefer rainwater over tap where you can; hard tap water slowly raises the pH.
Watering
The moment that matters most is late summer into autumn, when next spring's buds are forming — a dry spell then is the usual cause of buds dropping unopened months later. Keep the soil consistently moist (not sodden) from July onward, especially in pots. Established plants in the ground need help only in real drought.
Feeding
Feed with an ericaceous fertiliser in spring, after flowering finishes, and stop by the end of July — late feeding pushes soft growth at the expense of flower buds.
Pruning
Rarely needed. If a plant outgrows its space, trim lightly immediately after flowering — any later and you're cutting off next year's display.
Good to know
Fat buds sitting on the plant through autumn and winter are entirely normal — that's next spring's show, formed months in advance. Don't be alarmed by a few yellow leaves shed in early summer either; evergreens renew their foliage too.
